For years I have wanted to describe Hyderabad as it ought to be described; but I haven't really bothered to strain my cerebellum to pry facts and anecdotes, marshal them, and dish them out in an ornately coherent way, when strangers on a sojourn to The City of Pearls pitched me a rather difficult question - What's Hyderabad really like? I say it's a difficult question because, when you live in a city with a great history you begin to take it for granted. It's even more difficult when a sublimely attractive woman asks you , for you want to give her the best, unadulterated juice that one could possibly give. All this hoping against hope that she would become your friend, and perhaps, if things fall into the right place, you could hang out for sometime on a Saturday evening in lieu of watching the good old episodes of 'Friends' on Star World.
'What's so special about Hyderabad?', Pratiksha inquired in a fervent tone. We had met at the Aero Express Bus Stop previously and had spoken about this and that before a chauffeur-driven Honda City came to pick her up. Her question was innocuous, and considering that it was only her second visit to Hyderabad, you wouldn't call her ignorant and supercilious. I say supercilious because I believe you might have observed the so in her question. And you wouldn't be in the wrong, if you surmised that she was from Mumbai. I ventured to answer her question by comparing it to Mumbai, but I pulled myself together as it struck me that it was ridiculously impertinent. I wanted to compare it to Delhi but I perished the thought at the last minute owing to the descriptions of the place that my friends who had stayed there hitherto had given me. I don't mean to give you the impression that Delhi is any less. But I simply believe that Hyderabad is categorically distinct from the Capital of India in its own singular way. If you got the building blocks of the argument, would you convince yourself that Bangalore and Chennai are way beyond the borders of the argument? Otherwise, I must urge you to read on.
The next moment I thought her question was a dig but a genial smile on her face ascertained the genuineness of her question.
However, when I started to marshal the facts in my brain, I realized how difficult it was to describe Hyderabad. No doubt Hyderabad is known internationally and the International Airport as well as the innumerable IT companies has made it truly global. And, of course, the more you think about it , the more closer you get to the precipice of ineffability. But Hyderabad, as I know it, is far more than the Biryani , the Paradise , the GVK One Mall, the Tank Bund, and the Necklace Road. It's neither a place where celebrities' children with super bikes ram into some sort of a heavy vehicle on the Outer Ring Road , nor a study center inundated with prolific "educational institutions" - albeit not completely wrong.
Hyderabad, as fellow Hyderabadis will most definitely accede, is full of sunshine and splendor. I don't mean to give you the impression that Hyderabad is impeccable, pristine, and all that sort of rot that makes a city eligible to be officiated as The City Of The Year, if an award like that exists, but what I am merely hinting at is that it is a city where great things transpire at both godly and ungodly hours, if you like classifying time as I did, with equal chance. It's also - as only the Hyderabadis can manage - both Indian and Hyderabadi in the same breath. We are definitely not like the residents of a certain city who , upon arriving at another place in the same country, start dividing people based on geographical location. To them, the world is binary. To Hyderabadis, the ethos subsumes the Utopian ideals.
Further, the Prince is as much a fixture as the comedian from a low-budget movie. Venerable tradition of the city sits adjacent to the innocuously funny expletives coined by Hyderabadis squandering time at the New Sea World Cafe. Aadabs and Namastey Mamas/Chichas are as common as Sania Mirza's short skirts(Or must I say Saina Nehwal ? ) .
Lastly, and most importantly, what else could more euphonious than Hyderabadi Hindi , a brand of Hindi that is bequeathed to anyone who comes to city with aspirations? After all, Hyderabadi Hindi is laced with eccentricity, exaggerated propriety, geniality, snobbery, nonchalance, and most definitely an unabashed delight for all good things of life.
But how was I to explain this intangibly complex theory to Pratiksha? As I tried to explain, her eyes started to glaze over. At first she seemed intrigued. Then a bit flummoxed. Finally, vexed. Ironically, Pratiksha didn't have time hanging heavy on her seemingly smooth palms. She was pressed for time. I don't know about India at large, but I am sure that Hyderabadis have a concept called style of life. In India if being Hyderabadi is a metaphor for a style of life, Hyderabadi Hindi is its apogee.
So I decided to give her a slice of it and delineate the gist of my theory by means of an example.
I hailed the autowallah who occupied only one quarter of the driver's seat in a bizarre fashion , despite the fact that there were no passengers in the auto. Having nonchalantly aligned the front wheel of the auto in the direction that led to the place we were standing, the autowallah sped towards us with considerate speed before suddenly decelerating.
Self : Narayanguda aate kya, miyan ?
Pratiksha was stunned when she saw every element of my body transmogrify into a pacca Hyderabadi. I saw her wince and heard her cough a deprecating cough.
Autowallah : Kitte logaan hain?
Self : Do logaan. Aate kya?
Autowallah: Aajaoo.. Baitoh..Sevaanty rupees do saab.
Self: Kaiko Seventy? Aisa nai hota,anna.. Meter Chalra na? Kya toh bhi bol re tum
Autowallah : Itta saaman hain na.. Aur..Subah se girakh nahin mila saab. Chalo Baitoh..
Self : Mereko samajh mein nai aara.. Tumhari Meter chalri naa? Chaalees rupayee hota. Jyada Kaiko dena?
Autowallah : Kitta dete aap phir?
Self: Meter pe aa jao.
Autowallah : Sixty de do saab.
I didn't utter a word for few seconds.
Autowallah : Chalo, meter ke upar paanch rupayee do. Bas.
"Hamare ko bhi paise pedh pe nai ugre, anna..", I said in an authoritatively sympathizing way as I lowered my neck to get into the auto.
And the conversation about the status quo of Hyderabadi autowallahs began in the language that is best understood only if one experiences it first hand.
Meanwhile, Pratiksha gave me a berating look that translated to 'Real gentlemen won't give a fig'.
'Huh! Hyderabadis and their idiosyncrasies' , she mumbled.
I was dumbfounded. Fortunately, yes that's right, Pratiksha missed the point as well. In her view, this was all beneath contempt.
'So, what do you think about Hyderabad in general?' I asked her.
'Huh! A sort of a shoddy place?', she replied brashly.
'No not at all', I affirmed.
'Then you have some sort of a weird taste, not to mention the jarring effect of the language', she added.
'No . I am quite sure you have got it all twisted.'
'In that case', she said tucking a strand of her hair behind her wet ears, ' I don't seem to get the heart of the spirit of this city.'
Now tell me fellow Hyderabadis and others who have got a grip on what I have been driving at, could I have disagreed?
-Anirudh Sreerambhatla.




